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How To Buy Quality Sapphires

By:  Ruth V.

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Sapphire, a part of the Big 4 of the jewellery industry, is immensely loved by people all around the globe. Due to its rich history, symbolism, and luxurious allure, most women want to own this stunning gem (no surprises there!). But buying a good-quality sapphire can at times be a difficult task.

So, we’ve noted down 6 important factors that will help you pick a quality sapphire.

  1. Colour
  2. Clarity
  3. Carat Weight
  4. Cut
  5. Treatments
  6. Origin

1. Colour

Unlike diamonds, when it comes to sapphire, the most important factor to take into consideration is the colour of the gemstone. Even though it is believed to be a blue gem, sapphire is found in various hues like pink, purple, green, yellow, white, and so on (except red, which is a ruby). Along with the colour, you also need to look at the tone (lightness and darkness of the gem) and saturation (intensity of the colour) before purchasing.

What’s the best pick – Opt for gems that have a vivid hue with medium to medium-dark tone and moderate to strong colour saturation.

2. Clarity

Clarity refers to the relative absence of inclusions or imperfections that tend to affect the gem’s appearance or crystal structure. In the case of sapphires, it is very unlikely to find a gem that doesn’t have any inclusions. If you find a gem devoid of imperfections, then chances are it is fake or synthetic. The commonly found inclusions are cavities, silk (needle-like mineral inclusions), and concave. While inclusions, if eye-visible, can decrease the price of the jewel, inclusions that give a star effect (asterism) positively impact the gem’s value.

What’s the best pick – For sapphire, inclusions are common. But when you select a gem see to it that the stone is eye-clean .i.e. the inclusions are not visible to the naked eye.

3. Carat Weight

In terms of importance, the carat weight of the sapphire is usually the least spoken about. These gems are found in varying sizes and weights (ranging from few points to hundreds of carats) in nature. When compared to small-sized sapphires, the larger ones are rarely found. Generally speaking, commercial-quality gems weigh less than 5 carats. Large commercial-quality gems are rare but their availability is more than large fine-quality gems. Hence, the overall size of the gem makes a difference and affects the price of sapphires. Due to this, quality gems are not cut to smaller sizes to avoid loss of carat weight.

What’s the best pick – There is no particular carat weight of sapphire to look out for. In fact, for sapphires the higher the carat weight, the higher the price. Hence, the gem that you choose will largely depend upon your budget.

4. Cut

There aren’t any standardized cuts for sapphire and the shape of the rough highly influences the gem’s finished size and shape. Sapphire roughs are commonly found in barrel or spindle-shaped hexagonal pyramids, resulting in the finished gem often being deep. Gem cutters, when working on sapphires, focus on achieving the gem’s best hue and retaining its weight while minimizing its inclusions. They even look at the peculiarities like colour zoning (different coloured areas of the gem), pleochroism (different body colours when viewed from different angles) before determining the best cut for the gem.

What’s the best pick – Oval, round, cushion and emerald are the commonly available sapphire shapes, you can pick the one you like. But remember that a well-cut gem is symmetrical, reflects light, and showcases the best colour, clarity, and brilliance. So, make your choice accordingly.

5. Treatments

In the context of sapphire, treatments describe the procedure that the gemstone undergoes to enhance its appearance. This gem is usually subjected to colour-enhancing treatments as the stone with a more saturated hue has a higher price. Hence, these treatments are a common practise in the market today. The most common treatments are heat treatment, beryllium treatment, diffusion, and irradiation. Their basic aim is to improve a sapphire’s clarity, brighten (or intensify) its natural colour and at times even change the surface hue. Untreated sapphires are available, but they are very rare and extremely expensive.

What’s the best pick – The kind of treatment used on the gem, affects its value. Heat-treated sapphire is common and more valuable than diffused or beryllium-treated gems. Therefore, take note of the sapphire treatment before making the final decision.

6. Origin

When we talk about the origin of sapphire, we refer not only to the location where they are mined but also whether they are natural or lab-made gems. The gems that are mined in different parts of the world like the USA, Sri Lanka, Kenya, etc. are known as natural sapphires. Although location doesn’t have much impact on the price of the gem, sapphire from two places namely Burma (now Myanmar) and Kashmir are considered premium quality and fetch a higher price. On the other hand, lab-created sapphires (made in a labouratory’s controlled atmosphere) are the same as natural sapphires in terms of appearance and durability. However, due to their artificial origin, they are more affordable than their natural counterparts.

What’s the best pick – Remember that naturally mined gemstones always have a higher price tag than the lab-created ones. Thus, take note of the gem’s origin when purchasing, to be sure that you are paying a fair price.

Angara’s Assortment

We have a vast assortment of fine jewellery like ringsearrings, and more in appealing styles and designs adorned with sapphires. The gems used are of different hues like pink, yellow, orange, teal, and blue as well as qualities. As there is no particular grading system for sapphires they are broadly classified into four grades.

  • Heirloom (AAAA):The gems that fall in the top 1%, have exceptional hue, slight inclusion, and display high brilliance are included in this category.
  • Best (AAA):Gems that exude medium to rich colour and have fewer inclusions, mostly 10% of naturally occurring sapphires are given this grade.
  • Better (AA):Sapphire in this category has a dark to medium hue and is moderately included. The top 20% to 30% sapphires available in the world have this grade.
  • Good (A):Around 50% to 70% of natural sapphires that display moderate to heavy inclusions fall under this category.

All these pointers will surely make your journey of identifying, selecting, and buying sapphire jewellery a delightful and somewhat simpler process. For more information on this vibrant gem, you can take a look at our in-depth education guide on sapphire.

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